Back from the media blaster!

Looks pretty good :) There is some need for body work.

Swing lever shaft removal

This article says it all

 http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=3164

Here are some photos of what I did. I start by mocking out the old swing lever shaft.

Then I use an old bushing as a guide and grind down the head of the swing lever pin.

Notice the head is virtually the same size as the bushing.

Now use this tool to knock out the old bushing and install the new bushings.

Removing the upper torsion arms

There is a trick to removing the upper torsion arms. The upper torsion arms have a great amount of tension on them from the torsion bars. The tension is focused on the upper torsion stop. The stop must be removed before the torsion bar can be taken away from the beam.

To remove the torsion arms follow the following steps.

1. Take the retaining clips off, from the back of the upper torsion stop.

2. Use a jack (if beam is mounted to bus) or a large pry bar (if beam is not mounted to bus) to remove tension from the rubber stop.

• Using the pry bar, on the notch close to the rubber stop. Move the torsion arm away from the rubber stop. Use a large flat head to pry up the rubber stop. It may stick a bit.
• Using a jack, on the bottom ball joint and jack the linkage up until the upper torsion stop is free of the torsion bar. Use a large flat head to pry up the rubber stop. It may stick a bit.

3. Using a soft hammer start to tap out the torsion arm. Once it gets past the rubber stop "mount" (this is the metal bar protruding from the beam between the torsion arms) the torsion arm will come out easily.

Tip: it may take some amount of tapping to get it past the mount. Keep at it, make sure to use a soft hammer. The arm can be bent if you are to rough. Also hit the torsion arm in different spots to get it to move.

4. Make sure there is plenty of grease in the beam an on the bearings. If the needle bearings or the bushings are dry they will need to be replaced.

Engine Balancing... Voodoo or Should do? Part 2

In this update I plan to answer the following questions I asked in Engine Balancing Part 1.

What are the tell tail signs of a good balance job vs a bad?Is there any way to confirm a good balance job?Also what are the right questions to ask to screen out the posers from the real deal?On top of that I also read about volumetric balancing. Is this necessary?

First there is a level of trust and confidence you must have in the shop that is doing the work. It is difficult if not impossible to check the dynamic balance fully, short of taking it to another shop or rebalancing it yourself. After much research here are some of the things you can ask.

1. What parts do you require for a balance job. In the case of a type 4 motor it should look like the following.

1. Crankshaft
2. Flywheel
3. Gland nut or flywheel bolts
4. Pressure plate
5. Front crank pulley 356 and 911 (Cooling Fan TIV ONLY)
6. Connecting rods
7. Pistons& pins
8. Piston rings

Some shops may also want

1. Crankshaft gears, spacers and retaining hardware (do not install them on the crankshaft)
2. Connecting Rod bearings
3. Teflon buttons/wrist pin clips

If the shop does not at least require the fist 8 I would be weary 

2. Ask for a spec sheet on the balance. It should include weights of the parts to the .1 tenth of a gram. Knowing the weights you can double check the balance at home with a gram scale. If you want to be extra paranoid, weigh all the parts before you take them in for the balance, then compare when you get home.

3. Ask for all the parts to be indexed for reassembly. With indexed parts you can assemble the parts in the way they were balanced. Also if you need to replace an item such as the pressure plate you will know the balanced weight and be able to get close to that spec again. It wont be perfect do to wear in the motor but it will be closer than not knowing.

Still don't know if volumetric balancing is necessary. Here is a pretty good article on volumetric balancing.
http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_109725/article.html
I realized this is not a particular procedure or test that can satisfy this term. As I understand, it's the sum of good fitting parts, valve train geometry, engine balancing, deck height, etc. So basically an engine the has tight tolerance on all parts and assembled with best possible care.

I would like to amend this a bit and add Crankshaft gears to the must balance list. After I read John Maher's articles on engine balancing I am convinced this is necessary. These are great article it really details the process. Read both articles!
http://johnmaherracing.com/2013/01/project-2110-part-4-dynamic-balancing/
http://johnmaherracing.com/2013/01/project-2110-part-5-dynamic-balancing-continued/

Engine Balancing... Voodoo or Should do?

It seems clear to me that engine balancing is important. The confusion seems to be, to want extent of balance is necessary or required for engine longevity and performance?

There seem to be so many different options for engine balancing. Some shops say they use x, y, z method other shops say a, b, c. Everyone seems to balance different parts. Some say every part that spins on the crank should be balanced others say only certain parts need to be balanced.

A local shop says I need to balance

1. Crank
2. Flywheel
3. Pressure plate
4. Connecting rods
5. Pistons
6. Fan hub
7. Fan

At Aircooled Tech that they require the following parts for a proper balance
http://www.aircooledtechnology.com/index.php/dynamic-balancing

1. Crankshaft
2. Crankshaft gears, spacers and retaining hardware (do not install them on the crankshaft)
3. Flywheel
4. Gland nut or flywheel bolts
5. Pressure plate
6. Front crank pulley 356 and 911 (Cooling Fan TIV ONLY)
7. Connecting rods
8. Connecting Rod bearings
9. Pistons& pins
10. Piston rings
11. Teflon buttons/wrist pin clips

In up and coming updates I plan to answer the following questions.

What are the tell tail signs of a good balance job vs a bad?

Is there any way to confirm a good balance job?

Also what are the right questions to ask to screen out the posers from the real deal?

On top of that I also read about volumetric balancing. Is this necessary?

Engine Rebuild Part 2 - Valve Train KB

I am just going to list the most critical links that should be read in order of importance.

1. Raby's Ultimate Valve Train Geometry Article

2. 911 adjuster mod into 1.7 rockers

3. More on 911 Adjuster mod - grinding the rocker

4. Forums containing problems you may run into

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?5521-Valve-train-geometry-911-adjuster-clearance-needed

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?1448-Rocker-geometry-w-lousy-pics

http://forums.aircooledtechnology.com/showthread.php?2089-trimming-911-swivels


Summary:

The main concern is maintaining the correct geometry of the rocker assembly. To maintain the correct geometry, with custom valve train, the push rod must be adjusted and shims possibly added to the rocker mounting. Also the 1.7 style rockers must be shaved on the face (side opposite the lock nut) to provide clearance for the 911 style adjusters.

From my research so far the following is a good starting point.

1. Shave .06 thousands off the face of rocker. Use the techniques in 2. and 3. above as guides.
2. Use 1.  above as a guide to adjust the rocker assembly and push rods to give the correct valve train geometry

Note: there is a possibility that you will need to add shims, and shave more off the rockers and to cut the rods. It is not a exact process since every engine is different.